This is 2008 Panama Esmeralda Especial, perhaps the world's most well regarded coffee at this time. Arrived late July, 2008. This year, Hacienda Esmeralda took the bold step of conducting a private auction for all of their coffee output. In prior years, they participated in the Best of Panama coffee competition in which they took 1st place for four years running. A small lot of the very coffee that won the competition would be auctioned and the balance was sold to a group of favored roasters who had developed a relationship with the farm, and this on a limited allocation basis. Hacienda Esmeralda took the risk this year of not participating in the competition and left it to other worthy competitors; also they decided to have their own auction. The auction was set up in such a way that coffee was broken into 10 groups or batches, each with a slightly different taste profile. The coffee within each group were combined so each batch could be homogeneous. Batches were determined by where they were located on the farm (North or South of the Creek, eg), when they were harvested (Jan 9 through March 25) and, there were a few specially segregated coffees. Two of the ten lots were very unusual - one 50 pound bag of peaberry and one same size bag of repasse or 'late harvest' coffee left on the tree to become overripe. So eight batches remained for a grand total of 25,500 pounds of coffee. It may sound like a lot but it is really miniscule in the world of coffee. This equals only 193 sixty kilo sacks, however, this coffee was vacuum packaged in 50 pound cryovac bags, then boxed. We were the successful bidder of 900 pounds of coffee. Only a portion of it will be available to our home coffee roasters, the balance available to our roasted coffee customers. This is Esmeralda lot number 7, harvested between February 15th and 20th, south of the farm's creek. Last November, the 2007 coffee when roasted by our own Willoughby's Coffee & Tea roasting company, was given 94 points by Coffee Review. Also, last year, when Hacienda Esmeralda won first place in the Best of Panama competition, it fetched $130 a pound and we were part of the buying group that won it. Esmeralda Especial has truly become the world's most famous coffee -- the Best of Panama 2007 Auction Lot #1 winner which took top honors with a score of 95.26 and sold at auction for a record $130 per pound! In addition to a string of 1st place Best of Panama victories, it also placed first in the Specialty Coffee Association of America's Cupping Pavilion the last three years (2005-2007) and the Rainforest Alliance Cupping for Quality in 2004, 2006 and 2007. This is an opportunity to purchase something rare. The entire auction lot was only 500 pounds and was split between us and 7 companies, one of which was our own home roasting venture Roastmasters.com. But beyond the small auction lot, the farm privately sells the balance of its small, 150 bag output to a handleful of elite coffee roasters including Willoughby's. | Award night 2007 in Panama with The Peterson's of Hacienda La Esmeralda.
Clockwise: Bob Williams, Price, Rachel and Susan Peterson,
Barry Levine, Daniel Peterson. |
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Kenneth Davids in his November 2007 Coffee Review of last year's crop of Esmeralda wrote: "This lot of Gesha is from the same fields, crop and variety as the record-breaking auction lot but was sold outside auction. With its bold, boat-shaped beans and distinctive floral and chocolate cup, the Esmeralda Panama Gesha continues one of the world’s most unique coffees". He gave our coffee a rating of 94. The coffee is grown on the Hacienda La Esmeralda, located on the slopes of Mount Baru in western Panama near Boquete. It is grown from the geisha varietal at an altitude of over 5400 feet above sea level. Geisha is an heirloom cultivar of Ethiopian origin, which took root in Panama mid 20th Century. Soil and climate conditions in Panama are well suited to geisha; this cultivar is a major factor in Esmeralda's cup quality. The other major factor is the level of care and attention to detail given the coffee by the farm's owners, the family of Price Peterson. In addition to the level of excellence in the coffee's growth, harvest and preparation, the Peterson's care deeply for the people who work on the farm, paying premium wages and providing medical and dental care and a nursery for the young ones. The coffee is washed and is Certified Rainforest Alliance. We were competition judges and one of our colleagues gave this coffee a perfect 100 score, saying, "There was absolutely no category where I could take away anything. The coffee was perfect".  Hacienda La Esmeralda produces less than 200 bags of Esmeralda Especial in any given year, sometimes less. While expensive, this coffee is hard to get, very limited and delicious. It's Ethiopian roots are apparent but so are the unique, floral jasmine and citrus flavors and aromas.
Panama Esmeralda Especial will only be available for a very limited time. Cup Characteristics:This truly unique coffee is powerfully aromatic with notable jasmine fragrance. Orange-like citrus and blueberry flavor notes. Very bright, sweet, balanced acidity. Exotic, intense. When properly roasted the scent of this coffee is instantly recognizable. Ken Davids' cupping notes (2007): Sweet-toned, quietly intense aroma: jasmine, sweet citrus, cocoa. In the cup the mouthfeel is silky, almost syrupy, the acidity intense but delicate with shimmers of white wine. Orange, lemon, cocoaish chocolate, floral notes. Long, deep, flavor-saturated finish.
Price: $19.25 per pound. No further discount.
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